This is one of the finest white Burgundy estates, where the wine-making involves minimal interventions. It is run by Jean-Marc Blain and his wife Claudine, the daughter of Jacques Gagnard-Delagrange. The family owns some of the village’s greatest hillsides. New oak barrels are never used to excess, being subtly spread amongst the different cuvées, so that spicy oakiness is never perceptible here. Blain is also prudent with stirring-up of the lees (known as bâtonnage) which, if used to excess, may result in heavy wines which taste mealy. Here, on the contrary, the finished wines have great purity of fruit, with balanced acidity and long, clean flavours which clearly evoke the wines’ precise origins.

A vague whiff of the exotic can be found on the cool aromas of citrus confit, white pea, jasmine tea and poached pear. There is excellent volume and first-rate intensity to the overtly stony medium weight flavors that terminate in a bone-dry, balanced and chiseled finale. Like several of the prior wines, this too needs to develop more depth but that should just be a matter of exercising some patience. Date: Jun 2026; Drink: 2032+; Issue: 103; Comments: Sweet spot Outstanding; Rating 93 Points; Allen Meadows; Burghound