For John Hughes, the attraction to Riesling is all encompassing. Growing up on a small vineyard in the Clare Valley, and going on to work with some of the brightest Riesling makers in the country before launching his own venture, John is never far away from his beloved grape. John makes classic Australian styles from carefully selected vineyards with an emphasis on purity and site reflection, as well as German-inspired expressions that balance acidity and sugar with singular precision.

Eden Valley Rieslings often showcase delicacy and refinement. Rieslingfreak No.4 typically demonstrates this, with aromas of citrus, talcum powder and white blossom, and flavours of brown lime and lemon, with a background of sweet spice. The wine drinks well young, but will reward with cellaring.

It’s very good. It’s all that an Aussie riesling lover seeks, or so. Blackcurrant leaf and berry with tart lime, a touch of pickled Japanese ginger, some alpine herb and menthol notes, a scratch of dried and fresh green apple. It’s got some very, very frisky acid veins, briny almost, plenty of flavour, lots of get up and go. Quiet complexity in all this and a great sense of tension and energy. Right on. Pow. Rock the house. Date: Aug 2026; Alcohol: 11.5%; Price: $29; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2026-2035+; Rated: 95 Points; Mike Bennie; The Wine Front