An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

Mulberry and plummy fruit characters, new leather and clove/cardamom spice. Synchronised flavours and scents make for harmony from the get-go here. Warm fruit characters to taste, a bit of breathiness, tobacco and clove through the chewy, lightly puckering finish. Some mint and brambly herb shot through the wine too. Just over medium-weight with lip-smacking satisfaction though the finish fizzles a little with warmth and tart acidity poking out a touch. Needs time, as most Wendouree does, but feels a bit raw in a way. Tasted: Aug 2020; Alcohol: 13.6%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2023-2035+; Rated: 94 Points; Mike Bennie; The Wine Front

Wonderful perfume, blueberry, raspberry, medium-bodied, with plenty of cranberry crunch, cool mineral feel, lovely carriage of flavour, fresh and long, a touch of gum leaf as it goes, and some graphite stuff. It does feel a bit unformed as at now, but the freshness and fragrance here is very appealing. Tasted: Aug 2020; Alcohol: 13.6%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2023-2035+; Rated: 94 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front

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