An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

A blend of Shiraz (60%) and Mataro from 1893 Central, 1919 Eastern and 1920 Eastern bush vines. Blackberry, blood orange, liquorice, gum leaf and mint, with a honey floral top note. It’s medium to full-bodied, a distinct honey/bee pollen thing here, which I often find with Mataro, orange peel, red and black fruits, a dry grainy grip to tannin, closing with ripe strawberry and mint on a finish of good length. Quite zesty and pinchy, but a good wine all up. Date: Aug 2026; Alcohol: 13.7%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2027-2039+; Rated: 93 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front