An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

A blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Malbec from 1919 Eastern and 1989 Western plantings. You can certainly see the Malbec influence here with its plummy fruit and rosy perfume, some dark choc-hazelnut, blackberry, liquorice and spice. It’s medium-bodied, the tannin is quite thick, suede-like and supple, certainly more gentle than the straight Shiraz from the same year, nutty too, with fresh clean acidity and excellent length. Such a charming wine offering immediacy and pleasure in contrast to the straight Shiraz and Cabernet. So lovely. Date: Aug 2026; Alcohol: 13.9%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2027-2044+; Rated: 95 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front