An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Malbec from 1920 Eastern and 1898 Central vineyard plantings, and most often my favourite wine from Wendouree. Cassis, plum, mint chocolate, roses, aniseed, pencil and cedar. It’s medium-bodied, plush and firm, chocolate and roses, raspberry and blackcurrant, a ferrous quality to tannin, though my word, they are well-formed and ripe. Succulent almost, a cranberry freshness to acidity, and great length with a nutty strawberry flavour in the aftertaste. This is right up there in terms of quality. Great wine. Date: July 2026; Alcohol: 13.8%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2027-2040+; Rated: 97 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front