An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

From 1919 Eastern plantings. Wendouree are masters of understatement when it comes to describing their wines. Blackberry, menthol, liquorice, tea leaf, spice and cedar oak. It’s medium to full-bodied, nutty with red and black fruit, aniseed, savoury earthy elements, kind of bloody too, a cranberry freshness to acidity, a ferrous grainy grip to strong tannin, closing bright and very long with a choc-hazelnut and cedar-laced aftertaste. Very tight and kind of forbidding as at now, but gee, such presence. One for the ages I reckon. Date: Aug 2026; Alcohol: 13.8%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2029-2046+; Rated: 95+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front