An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

Blackberry, blackcurrant, camphor, tobacco, toasty woody oak, some nutmeg and pepper. This is medium-bodied and quite crisp in acidity, sporting something of a fresh tomato tang, black olive, black and blue fruit, quite grainy and dry in tannin, with a sappy finish of brightness and solid length. It’s more to an old school Aussie claret in style, absent the usual ferrous quality, compact power and density of tannin that comes with better vintages, though it’s also not without charm. Just different. Light and shade. Date: July 2025; Alcohol: 13.2%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2027-2040; Rated: 92+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front