An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

This has perfume and concentration even though it’s only medium-weight. Cherry, plum, mocha, dried roses, some spice and nougat. Tannin is ripe and fleshy, a little gummy though in a good way, acidity sits well within the wine, and there’s heaven forbid, a bit of a yum factor and raspberry plushness that allows it to drink well young. Length is very good. One of the best Wendouree wines from this vintage for me. Really like this. Date: July 2025; Alcohol: 13.2%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2025-2040+; Rated: 95 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front