An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

Burnt Anzac biscuits and coffee, blackberry, plum, gum leaf, some dried roses. Medium-bodied, a chewy and lightly gluey texture to the wine, shows some char and coffee bitterness, but does have plenty of stuffing. Again, the oak is a bit of a theme, and there’s also something of a salted pistachio character. This feels unformed as at now, and needs at least five years. A bit muddy and reductive at present. Date: Aug 2024; Alcohol: 13.6%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2028-2040+; Rated: 93+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front