An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

So refined, so beautiful to smell. Pencils, violet, cocoa and aniseed, plum and blackcurrant. Svelte, perfumed and pure of fruit, cool mineral acid line, tannin spreads out with a comforting cocoa warmth, slight hedgerow and edge, but carries it off. Runs cool and long, glassy acidity in the finish, perhaps ever so edgy, but carries it off with style. Less thunder and earth, more perfume, spring rain and cool nights, if you take my meaning. Different, but wonderful. Tasted: July 19; Alcohol: 13.2%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2021-2034+; Rated: 95+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front

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