An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.
Good wine this, and while I prefer the synergy of Cabernet and Malbec, Shiraz can fill the dance card competently. Has something of a bloody character, along with rose and dried flowers, and for the poor Malbec perhaps a case of ‘Everyone has a plan until they’re punched in the face’ (by Shiraz) courtesy of Tyson (not Stelzer, but Mike). Blackberry, a saline character here, certainly the steak and spice, camphor comes through too, and a bit of coffee and earth. Supple but dry tannin. Richness, depth, and a certain oomph. Rugged rather than suave, but a very good wine it is. More to come. Tasted: Jul 18; Alcohol: 13.6%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2021-2033+; Rated: 94+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front
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