Mount Mary is one of the great small wineries of Australia, established by Dr John Middleton in 1972. Production is tiny. Mount Mary is noted for both the character and high quality of its wines. Since the first vintage in 1976, it has established itself as one of Australia's most highly regarded producers, commanding a mythical status among wine collectors. The vineyard faces due north and captures optimum sunlight during the growing season. The purity of fruit, poise and structure of Quintet, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot blend, epitomises the estate. It resonates with individuality of place and Dr John’s fastidious respect for the landscape. Mount Mary has continued to take great steps forward while staying true to the vision of Dr John, whose son David oversees the business while grandson Sam Middleton has taken on the winemaking mantle with aplomb.

45% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 20% cabernet franc, 6% malbec, 4% petit verdot, separately vinified and matured in French oak (35% new) for 18-22 months before blending and bottling. The ultimate Bordeaux blend, both in theory and reality. Almost butterfly wing transparency, yet compelling intensity and length, the flavours spanning cassis to blueberry to plum and blackcurrant, all with a textured backing. Drink to: 2041; Date Tasted: Mar 2018; Alcohol: 13.2%; Rating: 97 Points & Special Value Star; James Halliday Wine Companion

It's only 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 26% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec and 3% Petit Verdot. A different wine to the (relatively) throaty 2015, but not a lesser one. Such perfume. Such finesse. It's a flat out joy to smell, and to taste. Violets, cedar, red and black fruits, tobacco, pencils, marzipan and aniseed. Just into medium-bodied, well-etched and sure-footed, much like the kitten, who's tongue the tannin sports. Delightful flavour of small red (mainly) and black berries, deft and precise, with a finish that's long and crisp, which leaves no doubt about the quality of this wine. Line and length. Fragrance and poise. Subtle, yet thoroughly persuasive. Gentle rasp of tannin cleans the mouth. It's a rare bird, this Cabernet. Tasted: Sep 18; Alcohol: 13.2%; Closure: Cork; Drink: 2019 - 2038+; Rated: 97 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front