Guido Porro’s tiny winery has been passed from father to son for four generations. It was only in the 1980s that they started bottling their own Barolos, rather than selling the grapes on to the local cooperative. Their wines are perfect for anyone who loves traditional Barolo. Not beholden to trends or fads, Guido lets his wines take their own shape as top Barolo has done for years. 

This lauded Serralunga amphitheater is one of the single greatest crus in all of Barolo. This iteration is belly-dancer flamboyant and absolutely glorious. While I am unsure if it is necessarily better than the Lazzairsco, it is certainly more sumptuous, exotic and absolutely thrilling: sandalwood, saffron, ume, campfire, dried rose petal and orange zest. Cardamon, tamarind, bitter almond and clove, too. This is a glimpse of southern India before a traipse through a north-African souk. Despite the extract and beautifully harnessed structural bones, this is almost decadent in its youth. At least for now. Drink a bottle, then hold on for the ride over the next couple of decades. Rating: 96 Points; James Suckling