An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

Blackberry, iron, liquorice, spice, dried herbs, and quite some perfume. It’s concentrated and firm yet keeps itself medium-bodied, tannin has a ferrous quality, it’s laden with spice, has some boysenberry and fresh blackberry character to acidity, raw almond and black olive, dried raspberry with a little toasty oak, and the finish is long and grippy, no shortage of tannin here!, with some regional gum leaf perfume to close.  It’s a very specific wine this one, and feels like the distillation of place, albeit from a cooler and spicier vintage. Date: July 2025; Alcohol: 13.2%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2028-2043+; Rated: 96 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front