An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

Here’s a pretty tight and bony Cabernet, and it’s very much in the classic old school style. Blackcurrant, redcurrant, aniseed and gum leaf, cigar box. It’s medium-bodied, firm grainy tannin, quite lively in acidity, lots of ironstone, rosehip and redcurrant jelly, with a tight and assertive finish of excellent length. Vibrant, uncompromising, but should excel with time in the cellar. At present it feels like sharpening a steel knife on a whetstone for future use. Date: Aug 2023; Alcohol: 13.3%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2028-2045+; Rated: 95+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front

Deep red-purple, bright and youthful, with an equally intense aroma of peppery briary raspberry, blackberry and cassis aromas, bright and fresh and faintly tinged with mint. It's full-bodied and rich, concentrated, powerfully structured yet also retains elegance. It's quite perfumed and there is no sign of the herbal side of cabernet. The tannins are taut and firm but supple enough to be approachable, however cellaring is certainly recommended. A lighter, more red-fruited vintage of this wine. Date: Aug 2023; Alcohol: 13.3%; Drink: 2023-2041; Rating: 96 Points; Huon Hooke; The Real Review

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