The family owned Penley Estate has gone through a rebirth in recent times. New wine maker Kate Goodman has introduced a far more contemporary style of wine making, partnered with well respected viticulturist David Paxton tending to the estate vineyards. A quiet revolution taking place with wines now produced from outside of Coonawarra.

There’s blood plum, blackcurrant, cold drip coffee and ironstone. Densely flavoured through the mid palate - full of plush black fruits, leather and spice. With all the depth and broodiness mentioned, don’t be fooled into thinking it’s a heavy beast of a wine – there’s a brightness of fruit adding freshness and a kick of vibrancy here. Tannins are powdery and fine, wound tightly amongst the ripe cassis core of fruit that drives the palate.

There is a forest of fruits, exotic spice, kirsch, blood plums and bilberries. But the spices draw you in and keep your palate captivated. Star anise, black mustard seed and nigella. Charred ancho chillies and a hint of yeast extract. It's laden with interest and the pillars of structure to age like a dream. Acidity is ethereal, so fine, and maintains the flavour right to the long final tunes. Some burdock root and mace, too. Truly a unique and fascinating wine. Drink to: 2036; Date Tasted: March 2025; Alcohol: 14.5%; Price: $75.00; Rating: 96 Points & Special Value Star; James Halliday Wine Companion