An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

This is from the 1920 and 1940 Eastern Vineyard plantings. Quite the intense purple colour this year. Dark plum, blackcurrant, dried roses, spice, some gum leaf and mint, cedar oak that needs to settle a little. It’s medium to full-bodied, offers a slurry of ferrous tannin, raspberry pip acidity, blackcurrant and raspberry flavour, milk chocolate, quietly earthy too, with a fresh finish of excellent length. An impressive release. Lots of energy and verve. Date: Aug 2026; Alcohol: 13.8%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2028-2040+; Rated: 95+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front