Located in the Yarra Valley, 65 kilometres northeast of Melbourne, the thousand candles farm is a historic, sprawling property that stretches over 1100 acres. It comprises of vineyards, cattle pastures, and native bush.

Whole bunches (80%), natural yeast ferment, no plunging or pump overs. Three weeks on skins before six months' maturation in older French oak. A saturated crimson purple. With its aromas of black raspberries, cherries, whole-bunch derived potpourri and violets, this reminds me of good St Joseph from the northern Rhône. There's excellent intensity and concentration on the palate, too, without any heaviness before finishing long, grippy tannins ensuring a prosperous life ahead. Drink to: 2035; Price: $65.00; Alcohol: 13%; Rating: 97 Points & Special Value Star; James Halliday Wine Companion

There's such finesse to the tannin here, such restraint to the oak, such an even glide to it all. It takes a little while to unfold in the glass and there's a smidgen of reductive funk but there's an intricacy here that is beguiling. It brings out the cherry plums, the whispers of creamy vanilla, and the sweet spice-and-nut notes but simultaneously it presents as one and it presents beautifully. Give it some time. Allow it to settle. It's a good one. Alcohol: 13%; Price: $65; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2025-2030+; Rated: 94 Points; Campbell Mattinson; The Wine Front