Sorrenberg is a 2.5 hectare vineyard which is owned by Barry and Jan Morey and situated on the outskirts of Beechworth. It is surrounded by forest on two sides and Stony Creek runs across the back boundary. The family has a tradition of winemaking that goes back over 500 years to the Mosel River in Germany. Barry’s grandfather, Jacob Barzen, emigrated to Australia to work on a family vineyard and winery at Dookie. This vineyard has since been sold and converted back to grazing land. The name Sorrenberg comes from a small vineyard owned by the Barzen family near a town called Reil on the Mosel.
Chardonnay is 100% barrel fermented in french oak with 25-30% of this being new oak. To add complexity to the wine all of it goes through natural yeast fermentation, as well all of it goes through complete malo-lactic fermentation. This wine received extended lees contact for ten months with weekly stirring. Then a further eight months barrel maturation. The longer time in barrel restricts this wines openness for a few months so be patient. Minimal handling and filtration ensures maximum flavour is retained.
It’s a slightly more acid driven release from 2019 with licks of honey water and sweet lime juice as the main part of the conversation. From 2018 to 2019 we see, a less rich, less pulpy, less fleshy and less powerful release, though the same swoop of judicious oak seasoning, curls of nutty savouriness and a light, salty sparkle of minerally things through the finish are familiar. I like the freshness here, drinkability right now is off the charts, it spreads itself a little wider in the palate; perhaps its early appeal keeps it off a higher plain? It’s complex and layered as always – the fruit does this, there’s so much detail in each sip, and the finish is ultra long and fine. A masterclass with the variety again, with wonderful variation of another emphatic growing season. And that’s the way you do it. Tasted: Feb 2021; Alcohol: 13%; Closure: Cork; Drink: 2021-2030; Rated: 96+ Points; Mike Bennie; The Wine Front
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