Sorrenberg is a 2.5 hectare vineyard which is owned by Barry and Jan Morey and situated on the outskirts of Beechworth. It is surrounded by forest on two sides and Stony Creek runs across the back boundary. The family has a tradition of winemaking that goes back over 500 years to the Mosel River in Germany. Barry’s grandfather, Jacob Barzen, emigrated to Australia to work on a family vineyard and winery at Dookie. This vineyard has since been sold and converted back to grazing land. The name Sorrenberg comes from a small vineyard owned by the Barzen family near a town called Reil on the Mosel.

Chardonnay is 100% barrel fermented in french oak with 25-30% of this being new oak. To add complexity to the wine all of it goes through natural yeast fermentation, as well all of it goes through complete malo-lactic fermentation. This wine received extended lees contact for ten months with weekly stirring. Then a further eight months barrel maturation. The longer time in barrel restricts this wines openness for a few months so be patient. Minimal handling and filtration ensures maximum flavour is retained.

There’s something special happening here. It’s the easy start, then the build of texture, then the compact finish. Quite unlike many chardonnay wines, it doesn’t flow in a regal sense. There’s also quite a bit of nougat, vanilla wafer, light toffee elements, a thick wash of salted cashew and then you start to work out that Golden Delicious apple juice, green pineapple, peachy swishes, watermelon rind, ginger, toasty cinnamon and little dashes of white pepper sit in the mix. It’s a flavoursome chardonnay, but also feels effortless and fine, even with its more generous persona. A wine to sit back and relax with, and enjoy all the elements unfurling. Eighteen months to two years is the zone, me thinks, but will go a little further. Date: Nov 2025; Alcohol: 13.8%; Closure: Cork; Drink: 2025-2031; Rated: 96+ Points; Mike Bennie; The Wine Front