Onannon is the venture of Sam Middleton, Kaspar Hermann and Will Byron, who donated the last two or three letters of their surnames to come up with Onannon. They have many things in common, not the least working vintages at Coldstream Hills, Will for six years, Sam for two (before ultimately returning to the familys winery, Mount Mary) and Kaspar for one. Since then they have bounced between vintages in Burgundy and Australia. Strictly speaking, I should disqualify myself from making any comment about them or their wine, but you would have to go a long way to find three more open-hearted and utterly committed winemakers; the world is their oyster, their ambitions unlimited.

A collaboration of three likely lads, Sam Middleton, Kaspar Hermann and Will Byron. There’s more definition and detail in the ‘22s, perhaps due to Will coming onboard full time to oversee this excellent enterprise. Fruit off the 35-year-old Robinson vineyard, hand picked and pressed to barrel, 30% new French oak plus a portion to 1000L stainless steel eggs; 50% undergoes mlf. Expect stone fruit and invigorating lemon flavours, lots of blossom and ginger spice, flint, and the funky sulphides entice immensely. The fuller-bodied palate gives way to creamed honey and lemon curd with the oak neatly integrated adding shape and spicy flavours, too. This turns out moreish and savoury. Another glass please. Date: Oct 2023; Alcohol: 13.5%; Price: $70.00; Drink by: 2031; Rating: 95 Points; James Halliday Wine Companion

Plenty of struck match, ginger snap biscuits, cardamom, curry leaf, aniseed, so much spice, pink grapefruit and stonefruit, lots of flinty texture, a buttery white mint chocolate richness, and a very long grippy finish. This is so complex and engaging. Caramel with citrus bite. So lovely. Date: Oct 2023; Alcohol: 13.5%; Price: $70; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2023-2030; Rated: 95 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front