Onannon is the venture of Sam Middleton, Kaspar Hermann and Will Byron, who donated the last two or three letters of their surnames to come up with Onannon. They have many things in common, not the least working vintages at Coldstream Hills, Will for six years, Sam for two (before ultimately returning to the familys winery, Mount Mary) and Kaspar for one. Since then they have bounced between vintages in Burgundy and Australia. Strictly speaking, I should disqualify myself from making any comment about them or their wine, but you would have to go a long way to find three more open-hearted and utterly committed winemakers; the world is their oyster, their ambitions unlimited.

It’s fresh and brisk, a little bit fruity and creamy, but fine-boned too. Some flint and funk, almond and preserved lemon, good energy and cut, lemon rind and crunch on a pretty long finish. It’ll be better again in a couple of months, like all of us. Tasted: March 2020; Alcohol: 13.2%; Price: $40; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2022-2026; Rated: 94 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front