Olivier Merlin is widely regarded as being one of the very finest winemakers in the Mâconnais. He and his wife Corinne began in 1987 by renting 4.5 hectares. from René Gaillard, of Domaine du Vieux Saint-Sorlin, who wished to retire. Since then, Olivier has been buying the property in stages as well as adding new vineyards such as St Véran (in 1994 and ‘96). In September ‘97 Olivier took out a négociant's licence in order to be able to make some Pouilly Fuissé, since land in this appellation is neither available to buy nor to rent.

93 Points - Decanter

Bottled just prior to my visit, the 2020 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Les Cras has a taut and crisp, petrichor-tinged bouquet, backward compared to Merlin's other cuvées but nicely focused. The palate is well balanced with a slight menthol tincture, fine acidity with plenty of substance towards the slightly honeyed finish that manages to maintain tension. Excellent. Drink: 2023 - 2036; Rating: 92 Points; Neal Martin; Vinous