Olivier Merlin is widely regarded as being one of the very finest winemakers in the Mâconnais. He and his wife Corinne began in 1987 by renting 4.5 hectares. from René Gaillard, of Domaine du Vieux Saint-Sorlin, who wished to retire. Since then, Olivier has been buying the property in stages as well as adding new vineyards such as St Véran (in 1994 and ‘96). In September ‘97 Olivier took out a négociant's licence in order to be able to make some Pouilly Fuissé, since land in this appellation is neither available to buy nor to rent.

Merlin told me that his 2020 Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes comes from the oldest vines not Premier Cru, up to 91 years old. This has a fragrant, quite mineral-driven bouquet with touches of dried yellow flowers and Vervane. The palate is well balanced with a slightly honeyed entry, fine acidity, nicely focused with hints of passion fruit and lychee conveying the warmth of that year's summer on the finish. Very fine. Drink: 2024 - 2036; Rating: 91 Points; Neal Martin; Vinous