Olivier Merlin is widely regarded as being one of the very finest winemakers in the Mâconnais. He and his wife Corinne began in 1987 by renting 4.5 hectares. from René Gaillard, of Domaine du Vieux Saint-Sorlin, who wished to retire. Since then, Olivier has been buying the property in stages as well as adding new vineyards such as St Véran (in 1994 and ‘96). In September ‘97 Olivier took out a négociant's licence in order to be able to make some Pouilly Fuissé, since land in this appellation is neither available to buy nor to rent.

The 2020 Saint-Véran En Creche comes from a 0.33-hectare plot that Merlin describes as precocious due to its exposure that sees a lot of sunlight during the day, therefore it is picked earlier than others. It has a well-defined bouquet with light flinty aromas, a touch of red apple and pressed flower. The palate is well balanced and very harmonious, fine tension thanks to the acidity with a welcome twist of sour lemon on the finish. Very fine. Drink: 2023 - 2032; Rating: 92 Points; Neal Martin; Vinous