Dr Loosen has been in the same family for more than 200 years and its present guardian, Ernst Loosen, is one of the great characters of the wine world. He assumed ownership of the estate in 1988 and immediately realised that, with ungrafted vines averaging 70 years of age, in some of Germany's best-rated vineyards, gave him the raw materials to create stunningly intense, world-class wines. To achieve this, he dramatically reduced his crop size and stopped all chemical fertilisation, preferring only moderate use of organic fertilisers. And, most importantly, he turned to gentler cellar practices that allow the wine to develop its full potential with a minimum of handling and technological meddling.
Floral, sweet green apple, maybe even mango, some flint. The balance is impeccable, purity, pretty punchy fruit, sweetness and acid balance provides tension, and there’s a gentle stony texture to go with it. Long and fresh finish. Flat out yum. I like this for drinking young. Why wait? Tasted: Feb 2020; Alcohol: 8.5%; Price: $50; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2020-2024+; Rated: 94 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front
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