Dr Loosen has been in the same family for more than 200 years and its present guardian, Ernst Loosen, is one of the great characters of the wine world. He assumed ownership of the estate in 1988 and immediately realised that, with ungrafted vines averaging 70 years of age, in some of Germany's best-rated vineyards, gave him the raw materials to create stunningly intense, world-class wines. To achieve this, he dramatically reduced his crop size and stopped all chemical fertilisation, preferring only moderate use of organic fertilisers. And, most importantly, he turned to gentler cellar practices that allow the wine to develop its full potential with a minimum of handling and technological meddling.

Bernkasteler Lay, an old dialect word for “slate” is situated around the Dr. Loosen estate house, directly along the Mosel, just outside the village of Bernkastel. As the name indicates, the soil is predominantly blue slate, but it is heavier and deeper than the soil in the neighboring villages of Wehlen or Graach. This site has a gentler slope than the estate’s other vineyards. It produces richly textured, assertive wines.

The dynamism and herbal freshness of this Kabinett are off the scale. Stunning white peach and crisp apple aromas and flavors, and the delicate touch of creaminess on the light-bodied palate electrify this. Drink or hold. Date: Sept 2025; Rating: 94 Points; James Suckling

The 2024 Riesling Bernkasteler Lay Kabinett is beautifully bright, fresh and tender with green apple and apple blossom aromas wrapped in the scent of the zestiest lemon. It is gorgeous and so serene. Lightness is central and the operative term here. The 2024 is pure and alive. (Off-dry). Date: Oct 2025; Drinking Window: 2025 - 2050; Rating: 93 Points; Vinous