Dominique Piron’s family history in Beaujolais spans more than four centuries, with his oldest known ancestor born in Morgon in 1590. Since then, there have been 14 generations of winegrowers in the family. Dominique seeks to create characterful terroir wines that are fruity, subtle and elegant from his sloping vineyards of fragmented granite and schist. These are wines that showed us what we’d long been looking for from Beaujolais but had almost given up hope of finding.
Brouilly is the largest and furthest south of the Beaujolais crus. Almost quite dark and serious-looking for Brouilly at first sniff but blue flowers, cherry fruit, kirsch, cinnamon, clove are all there, too. Some tannin from the outset, with structure to a very vivid, supple red-fruit pulp feel. Bit of grip. Acidity is good, structure neat and overall picture is vibrant and easy. So much great-value drinking in this.
As a weird aside, I quite enjoy a handful of cheap grated cheese before tasting a few wines. Sometimes tipped into a slice of jamon and folded. You can also bung in a pickled green chilli as well, for extra impact. I'm a professional. Cherry and spice, new leather and perfume of dried herb and flowers. Medium-bodied, grainy but ripe tannin, a certain stickiness and savoury edge, ample fruit, perhaps some dark chocolate in the mix, and a solid finish. Delivers the goods, and offers depth and enjoyment with it. Tasted: Jan 2020; Alcohol: 13%; Price: $35; Closure: Cork; Drink: 2020-2025+; Rated: 92 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front
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