Since its first vintage in 1985, Coldstream Hills has grown to be one of Australia’s leading small wineries. With a reputation for producing outstanding single vineyard and reserve wines Coldstream Hills has a particular focus on the internationally heralded varieties, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

All estate fruit, including the 1985-planted Amphitheatre A block and the 1988-planted G block. Whole bunches (20%), all French barriques (50% new). Deep crimson red. Concentrated and intense with aromas of black cherry, blueberries, Vietnamese mint, dark chocolate, violets and some oak-derived spice. Densely packed, this muscular wine has ripe, powerful and chewy tannins and, as past Coldstream pinots have shown, this will still look good 20 years from now. Drink: To 2034; Price: $85.00; Alcohol: 14%; Rating: 96 Points; James Halliday Wine Companion

I went to a tasting recently of Coldstream Hills pinot noirs from the 1980s and early 1990s, and it was a revelation. I've seen mature examples of stand-out vintages in the past, and been blown away by them, but pretty much every wine at this tasting was fascinating – at an age when they didn't really have much right to be. This 2021 release of Coldstream Hill's famed Reserve offering is intense, tannic and lengthy. It 's a powerhouse pinot noir from a year worthy of pomp. Glossy oak, powerful fruit, spread and run. Nuts, sweet spice, liqueured cherries, tang, texture. Oak is showy for now but this has a long journey ahead of it. Even at this young age it feels complete. Drink: 2025 to 2032+; Price: $85.00; Alcohol: 14%; Rating: 96 Points; Campbell Mattinson; The Wine Front