This is one of the finest white Burgundy estates, where the wine-making involves minimal interventions. It is run by Jean-Marc Blain and his wife Claudine, the daughter of Jacques Gagnard-Delagrange. The family owns some of the village’s greatest hillsides. New oak barrels are never used to excess, being subtly spread amongst the different cuvées, so that spicy oakiness is never perceptible here. Blain is also prudent with stirring-up of the lees (known as bâtonnage) which, if used to excess, may result in heavy wines which taste mealy. Here, on the contrary, the finished wines have great purity of fruit, with balanced acidity and long, clean flavours which clearly evoke the wines’ precise origins.
Here too the nose is cool, elegant, airy and high-toned with its pretty array of red cherry, spice and rose petal-suffused aromas. The intense and well-detailed bigger-bodied flavors possess a lovely sense of underlying tension before culminating in a stony, youthfully austere and balanced finale. Like the Pommard villages, this is not particularly concentrated yet the overall sense of harmony makes this quite attractive. Tasted: Apr 2019; Drink: 2025+; Issue: 74; Rating 90-92 Points; Allen Meadows; Burghound
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