An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

Blackberry, blackcurrant, aniseed, tobacco and dried herbs, spice, gum leaf, some toasty cedar oak. It has concentrated black fruit, pulls savoury with black olive and grilled meat rolled in dried herbs, acidity has a cool and gently tangy quality, tannin is a little furry but also kind of ferrous, they are drying but sit well in the wine and give it a hard stamp of old school Wendouree authority, and the finish is savoury, saline, spicy and long. This needs a fair bit of time, but it’s a distinctive and very good wine.  Date: July 2025; Alcohol: 13%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2028-2043+; Rated: 95 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front