An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

A wine of presence and quiet confidence that knows exactly what it’s about, and in 2021, there’s an extra dimension of energy and command. Blackberry and ripe red fruits, a little earthy and peppery, a backstop of nutty cedar oak, and some mint/aniseed. It’s bright and firm, with grainy earthy tannin, a cranberry freshness to acidity, and a very long and firm finish. It’s one of the best Shiraz wines from Wendouree that I can recall tasting. Date: Aug 2023; Alcohol: 13.8%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2028-2045+; Rated: 96+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front

Deep, dark red with a purple rim, the bouquet of cedar, black-pepper, dry/baked earth and dried herbs, the palate likewise drying, savoury, the flavour intense and focused on the middle-palate, the tannins ample but supple, ripe and rounded, with softness that renders it quite accessible in its youth. Juicy fruit-sweet core. Long, long carry. A vintage of intensity and great elegance. Date: Aug 2023; Alcohol: 13.8%; Drink: 2023-2041; Rating: 96 Points; Huon Hooke; The Real Review

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