An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

Here’s a pretty tight and bony Cabernet, and it’s very much in the classic old school style. Blackcurrant, redcurrant, aniseed and gum leaf, cigar box. It’s medium-bodied, firm grainy tannin, quite lively in acidity, lots of ironstone, rosehip and redcurrant jelly, with a tight and assertive finish of excellent length. Vibrant, uncompromising, but should excel with time in the cellar. At present it feels like sharpening a steel knife on a whetstone for future use. Date: Aug 2023; Alcohol: 13.4%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2026-2044+; Rated: 97 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front

Deep and bright red-purple colour; blackberry and other dark-fruit aromas, mulberry and cassis, an interesting floral high-note, but no sign of the herbal sides of malbec or cabernet. It's very full-bodied and firm with big structure and volume of flavour, with fruit and tannin to burn, but it's quite unencumbered by oak. An outstanding cellaring wine. Date: Aug 2023; Alcohol: 13.4%; Drink: 2025-2043; Rating: 97 Points; Huon Hooke; The Real Review