An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

This is a much lighter, more frisky expression of this wine. It comes over a bit Yarra Valley or maybe Loire Cabernet Franc as a way to describe its style, aside from a firm mint/menthol thing happening. Redcurrant jelly, ripe small dark berries, dried roses, a fair clip of woody toasty oak, fresh acidity, quite juicy in redcurrant and blackcurrant, some tobacco, a light grainy grip to tannin with a fresh finish of good length. I like it, though again, it’s quite different to the usual Malbec from this producer, and it needs some time for the oak to settle. Date: July 2025; Alcohol: 13.2%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2027-2035; Rated: 93 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front