Thistledown was founded by Master of Wine, Giles Cooke who had a vision for a more elegant, textural interpretation of Australian wine. Initial explorations resulted in access to many of the best vineyards, many of which were the previously unloved Old Vine Grenache. Incredible, historic fruit sources coupled with Giles' increasingly adept hands has quickly resulted in a reputation for being amongst the best in the country.

Back after a couple of years' hiatus, this is now bottled under screw cap. Fermented wild in seasoned oak, with a portion in ceramic egg. Refinement is king here, with classic chardonnay winemaking present, but quietly so; the fruit elegant, taut, but not lacking for intensity, suspended on a line of vigorous, ripe acidity and a chalky structural pithiness. White stone fruit, crisp golden apple and Lisbon lemon. Plus, a little spice with faint notes of ground ginger, clove and allspice. There’s an appealing savouriness to this, a confident quietude of making. It’s excellent, and it has the bones to age. Date: Feb 2025; Alcohol: 12.5%; Drink by: 2035; Rating: 96 Points & Special Value Star; James Halliday Wine Companion

Medium-light yellow colour; green apple and feijoa fruits coupled with almond and freshly baked pastry nuances, the palate is bright and fresh, with limy middle-palate intensity and focus, pithy and crisply refreshing at the finish with a lacing of citrus-peel bitterness that adds to its cleansing properties. Impressive intensity and persistence: a very smart chardonnay indeed. Date: Apr 2025; Alcohol: 12.5%; Drink: 2025-2036; Rating: 96 Points; Huon Hooke; The Real Review