The Holyman family had been involved in vineyards in Tasmania for 20 years, but Joe Holyman's career in the wine industry, first as a sales rep, then as a wine buyer, and more recently working in wineries in NZ, Portugal, France, Mount Benson and Coonawarra, gave him an exceptionally broad-based understanding of wine. In 2004 Joe and wife Lou purchased the former Rotherhythe Vineyard, which had been established in 1986, and set about restoring it to its former glory. There are two ranges: the Stoney Rise wines, focusing on fruit and early drinkability, and the Holyman wines, with more structure, more new oak and the best grapes, here the focus on length and potential longevity.
Floral hints first up, followed by Nashi pear. The palate is crisp with cashew, kiwi fruit and has a slightly saline finish. Texture from lees stirring finishes the wine and balances the acidity to give the nutty mouth filling grip.
Grüner veltliner is a late-ripening variety that flourishes in a cool climate, the cooler the better. Its varietal signature of white pepper on the bouquet is present, but even more is the tightly wound spring of acidity. Its length is prodigious, and it is a wine built for the (very) long haul. Drink to: 2040; Price: $32.00; Date Tasted: Nov 2020; Alcohol: 11.5%; Rating: 97 Points & Special Value Star & Top 100 Wines for 2020; James Halliday Wine Companion
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