One of the greatest names in all of Burgundy, dating back to the 1930s when Armand was one of the first of five domaines to defy the negociants and bottle their own wine. The Rousseau name is synonymous with Gevrey-Chambertin; Armand passed the reins to Charles who on retirement passed control to his son Eric.
The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques is being matured in 80% new oak, and it was the one wine in the cellar that was quite strongly marked by its time in barrel when I tasted it. Behind the prominent framing of cedary oak lurks a pretty bouquet of red and black berry fruit, orange rind, rich soil tones and peony. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, tangy and open-knit with a vanillin-inflected finish. I suspect that the final assemblage will be more integrated than the single barrel, but in its structure and overall profile, this looks to be reminiscent of Rousseau's 2007 Clos Saint-Jacques. Tasted: Jan 2019; Drink: NA; Rating: 91-94 Points; William Kelley; Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate
Here the wood treatment is equally subtle on the restrained nose that displays fresh and cool aromas of red currant, wet stone, tea and forest floor. Like the Ruchottes the mouthfeel of the middle weight flavors is quite sleek and ultra-intense while flashing plenty of minerality on the strikingly well-detailed finish that displays focused power and superb length. This is an exercise in harmony and grace and while it should be approachable after only 6 to 8 years, it should age effortlessly for several decades. Tasted: Jan 20; Drink: 2032+; Issue: 77; Rating 94 Points; Allen Meadows; Burghound
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