Onannon is the venture of Sam Middleton, Kaspar Hermann and Will Byron, who donated the last two or three letters of their surnames to come up with Onannon. They have many things in common, not the least working vintages at Coldstream Hills, Will for six years, Sam for two (before ultimately returning to the familys winery, Mount Mary) and Kaspar for one. Since then they have bounced between vintages in Burgundy and Australia. Strictly speaking, I should disqualify myself from making any comment about them or their wine, but you would have to go a long way to find three more open-hearted and utterly committed winemakers; the world is their oyster, their ambitions unlimited.

Onannon produced an impressive range of single-vineyard chardonnays in ‘22 and this, well, is stunning. Fruit is pressed to barrel and left on full solids with 100% mlf; aged nine months in used oak and unsulphured until bottling. The result is a moreish, tight and linear drink, yet layers of flavour within taking in lots of seductive sulphides, lemon and ginger cream, super-bright acidity, and it stays in the savoury spectrum with a hint of oatmeal biscuit. Alas, just two barrels made. Date: Oct 2023; Alcohol: 13.5%; Price: $70.00; Drink by: 2032; Rating: 96 Points & Special Value Star; James Halliday Wine Companion