Olivier Merlin is widely regarded as being one of the very finest winemakers in the Mâconnais. He and his wife Corinne began in 1987 by renting 4.5 hectares. from René Gaillard, of Domaine du Vieux Saint-Sorlin, who wished to retire. Since then, Olivier has been buying the property in stages as well as adding new vineyards such as St Véran (in 1994 and ‘96). In September ‘97 Olivier took out a négociant's licence in order to be able to make some Pouilly Fuissé, since land in this appellation is neither available to buy nor to rent.

The 2020 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Chevrieres 1er Cru, one of Merlin's most precocious Premier Crus (0.65 hectares) has a touch of menthol on the nose that conveys real vigour. The palate is very well balanced with a silky-smooth entry, fine acidity, lightly spiced with a distant tang of lemongrass and stem ginger, chamomile and touches of bergamot furnishing the finish. What more could you want in a Pouilly-Fuissé? Drink: 2023 - 2042; Rating: 94 Points; Neal Martin; Vinous