Mount Mary is one of the great small wineries of Australia, established by Dr John Middleton in 1972. Production is tiny. Mount Mary is noted for both the character and high quality of its wines. Since the first vintage in 1976, it has established itself as one of Australia's most highly regarded producers, commanding a mythical status among wine collectors. The vineyard faces due north and captures optimum sunlight during the growing season. The purity of fruit, poise and structure of Quintet, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot blend, epitomises the estate. It resonates with individuality of place and Dr John’s fastidious respect for the landscape. Mount Mary has continued to take great steps forward while staying true to the vision of Dr John, whose son David oversees the business while grandson Sam Middleton has taken on the winemaking mantle with aplomb.

Hand picked, 20% whole-bunch pressed, the balance crushed and destemmed. Matured in French puncheons and barriques (30% new) for 11 months. Interestingly, Mount Mary offers their mailing customers the choice of either Diam 30 or screwcap. A very bright green gold. Smells super with its aromas of perfectly ripened white nectarines, orange blossom and some complex matchstick and oyster shell notes. Powerful and structured on the palate, finishing saline and long. A great and long-lived Mount Mary chardonnay in the making. Date: Jan 2024; Alcohol: 13.5%; Price: $150.00; Drink by: 2032; Rating: 97 Points; James Halliday Wine Companion

I really like this wine, more so every year. Stylistically, it sits in a classical, nutty, creamy sort of space; the sophistication of it seems to be refined each vintage, which sends it in the right direction, for my tastes anyway. On the nose, this 2022 Chardonnay presents salted cashews, white spring florals, firm nectarine, Golden Delicious apple and a splay of beeswax/tatami mat nuances and brine. On the palate, the wine builds on the path set forth by the bouquet - it is rich and wide, textural and fulsome yet with acidity and length that drags the width of the wine out to a focused and long close. It fermented in barrel, with malolactic fermentation eschewed, and it matured in a selection of French barriques (30% new), older barrels and large cask (500 liters). Hard pressing constructs the phenolic shape of the wine - a great thing - and the wine was matured for 11 months. The acidity through the finish is salty and juicy, and it leaves an uptick of energy and life in the mouth once the wine is gone. This is really good. Rating: 97 Points; Erin Larkin; Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate

Wonderfully minerally and discrete, with aromas of lemon confit, gun smoke, lanolin, beeswax and honeysuckle. The palate is extremely tightly wound with laser-like acidity, giving notes of grapefruit pith, candied lime zest, orange blossoms and river stones. Minerally and energetic with an underlying texture and power. Excellent. Rating: 97 Points;  James Suckling