Ministry of Clouds is the creation of Bernice Ong and Julian Forwood and it’s just on a decade since they decided to leave the security of the corporate wine world (the ministry) for the adventure (the clouds) of their own wine venture. And it’s been quite a journey thus far.

A pure and tightly wound wine showing the muscle and intensity of the low yielding East Coast site, and the fragile acid line synonymous with fine Tasmanian Chardonnay. A shy and somewhat restrained nose exuding white flowers, peach, green nectarine characters, and subtle hints of nougat and wood spice. On the palate, a bedrock of chalky minerality supports a core of intense stone fruit, framing its lingering acidity.

Part came from Birdwood, but it’s the Piccadilly portion that provides the quality of this beautifully cadenced chardonnay, malolactic fermentation for 30% of the wine after fermentation in new and used French oak, plus nine months’ maturation. Expensive to make, quality the dividend. Date: Nov 2023; Alcohol: 12.5%; Price: $50.00; Drink by: 2032; Rating: 96 Points & Top 100 Wines for 2023; James Halliday Wine Companion