Hoddles Creek Estate was established in 1997 when the D'Anna family decided to establish a vineyard on the property that has been in the family since 1960. The vineyard sits astride Gembrook road and adjacent Hoddles Creek. Its steeply sloping blocks prohibit mechanical harvesting, with both vineyards being hand pruned and harvested. All wines are single vineyard and estate grown.

This is distinct chardonnay, not just for being the 1er chardonnay of Hoddles Creek, but generally. It throws out warm spice and creamy, woody scents with strong sea spray, grilled nuts and lifted sherry on green apple, lime and brined chicken stock. Exotic, compelling, a little out there, though those seeking generosity apply within. The palate is almost tactile with spice elements too, a little less saline than the bouquet but it’s there on grilled cashew and rolled through red apple, grapefruit and musky lime characters. Somewhat waxy too. It marches to its own beat. It nods in the direction of southern Burgundy’s more left of centre producers, and those, like Hoddles, that let their wines get air, and hang out in barrels and cellars longer. Texture flows and spreads amongst the prickle of that spice and minerality. Gosh, I like this. Date: Aug 2024; Alcohol: 13.2%; Price: $70; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2024-2030; Rated: 95 Points; Mike Bennie; The Wine Front