Mark Walpole is arguably one of Australia's greatest viticulturalists and his interest in cool climate viticulture led him from his home in the Ovens Valley to the elevated Beechworth plateau at the top of the Escarpment above the Murmungee basin. His wines combine a unique expression of the vineyard site, its management; and the greater regional influences. The red wines are made using minimal intervention, using indigenous yeasts and open fermentation. Whites are barrel fermented using both indigenous and cultured yeasts depending on variety and style.

Cool climate Chardonnay characters, with grapefruit, melon, white stone fruit, mineral and a hint of struck match. The palate shows richness despite the lack of malolactic fermentation, principally from the vines now over 40 years of age.

The 2024 vintage was a much more pleasurable experience than the 2003 which was ‘the year without a summer'", says Mark Walpole. Here’s a Chardonnay with plenty of flavour, though it also keeps itself tight and tidy. Peach, pink grapefruit, cedar, spice, a vanilla creaminess and honey florals, aniseed, with a minor amount of struck match. There’s a juiciness to the wine, balanced acidity, a light chalky texture, an oatmeal savoury element, with a flavoursome finish of excellent length. Such a lovely wine to drink. Date: September 2025; Alcohol: 13%; Price: $55; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2026-2032+; Rated: 94+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front