Dr Loosen has been in the same family for more than 200 years and its present guardian, Ernst Loosen, is one of the great characters of the wine world. He assumed ownership of the estate in 1988 and immediately realised that, with ungrafted vines averaging 70 years of age, in some of Germany's best-rated vineyards, gave him the raw materials to create stunningly intense, world-class wines. To achieve this, he dramatically reduced his crop size and stopped all chemical fertilisation, preferring only moderate use of organic fertilisers. And, most importantly, he turned to gentler cellar practices that allow the wine to develop its full potential with a minimum of handling and technological meddling.

The Sundial vineyard in Wehlen is almost nothing but broken shards of blue Devonian slate. 100% Riesling from vines over 60 years old on average. Cool fermentation in a combination of stainless steel tanks and Fuder barrels, half fermented with natural yeasts, half with cultured yeasts.

My word this wine has some tension. That tussle between acidity and sweetness is bang on in this vintage. It feels cool and classic. Green apple, perfume, the stony character, all just so. It has crunch and energy, and the finish is chalky, slightly spicy, and very long. A great vintage for this wine. Date: Nov 2025; Alcohol: 8%; Price: $47; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2025-2040+; Rated: 94+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front

The spring blossom aromas leap out of the glass. Vibrant and elegant on the light-bodied palate. Dangerous vitality in the long, silky finish. As delicious as this is now, just wait for what happens with a few years of bottle age. Date: Sept 2025; Rating: 94 Points; Stuart Pigott; James Suckling

The 2024 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett is tender with citrus on the nose, shy but fresh. The super-slender palate is lightness itself, a veil of lemon spray, stone and ease. It is wonderful, animating and weightless. (Off-dry). Date: Oct 2025; Drinking Window: 2025 - 2050; Rating: 93 Points; Vinous