Domenica sits 460m above sea level atop the granite ridge sweeping away to the south west of Beechworth. The wines are vividly reflective of their origin, a gripping mineral texture encasing the mature vine vitality of the varietals chosen to express it. Wines are traditionally made; owner/winemaker Peter Graham has an impressive 13 years under his belt as assistant winemaker at Giaconda. Unsurprisingly, the Domenica wines are first class examples of small production, ‘hands on’ winemaking at its very best.

Grown on the Estate vineyard and inspired by the best Cru Beaujolais, this is a Gamay to be taken seriously. Fermented in a large open topped concrete tank with 15% whole bunches. Destemmed berries were left uncrushed, allowing for gentle extraction and maintaining purity of fruit. Aged in foudre and barrique for nine months. 

Raspberry, black cherry, hazelnut, a bit spicy and autumnal too, mint and dried flowers, but you know what, it most certainly speaks to the grape variety, and also has a cool steel-like inflection, which is very nice. It’s medium-bodied, succulent, red and black fruited, a bit earthy and nutty, balanced acidity, with a fine sooty tannin finish of excellent length offering some almond paste richness. Yum. So good. Date: Feb 2025; Alcohol: 13.7%; Price: $45; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2025-2030; Rated: 94 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front

Fermented in open top concrete tank; 15% whole bunches with destemmed berries left uncrushed for gentle extraction; nine months' maturation in foudre and barrique. The maker sees gamay as a natural fit for Beechworth. You have to agree. It combines the fineness of red-berried expression with an extra depth of fruit concentration that is impressive. Mixes a touch of savouriness, an autumnal blend of earthiness and leaves, with black cherries, cassis, dried herbs and a light pepperiness. Smooth as you like across the middle palate, finishing with a bright ping of acidity. Gamay gets serious. Date Tasted: Feb 25; Alcohol: 13.7%; Drink to: 2031; Price: $45.00; Rating: 94 Points; James Halliday Wine Companion