Coche-Dury produces some of the very greatest white wines coming out of Burgundy, which have even achieved cult status. The ingredients at the root of this success are mostly no secret, they also apply to several other producers of exceptional wines: prime vineyard land, constant work in vineyard and cellars, and rigorous yield limitation. However in Jean-François Coche-Dury’s case they are taken to a level of perfection which would appear difficult to equal.
While my tasting at the domaine was postponed by France's second COVID-19 lockdown, I sacrificed a bottle from my cellar to take a first look at Raphaël Coche's 2018 Meursault Village. The wine is very promising indeed, unwinding in the glass with aromas of struck match, crisp orchard fruit and citrus oil, complemented by subtle hints of praline and sesame. Medium to full-bodied, with impressive cut and tension in this often rather open-knit vintage, it's elegantly textural and nicely concentrated, with tangy acids and a youthfully chalky finish. Expect it to put on weight with some time in bottle. I'm looking forward to getting acquainted with the rest of the 2018 Coche-Dury portfolio in the near future. Date: Jan 2021; Drink: 2015-2050; Rating: 92 Points; William Kelley; Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate
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