An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

Blackberry, raspberry jam, mint and menthol, cedar and spice , dried orange peel, and rubber. Oak is a little gluey here and unresolved, but the fruit is good, pulls a little bitter and charred, but time will likely be good to it. Pulls a bit grainy to close on a finish of good length. Date: Aug 2024; Alcohol: 13.6%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2026-2036+; Rated: 93+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front