An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

Blackberry, boysenberry, coffee bean, gum leaf, dried herbs and flowers. It’s dense and chewy, a lot of tannin, has some coffee bitterness, a bit saline, iron and wood tannin, a cooper’s dream here, perhaps, with a gritty finish of good length. Well, this is kind of old school. Brightens up a bit on the finish, but gee, pretty robust and zingy. Time will tell. Hard to love as at now. A whole lot of reduction and char. This wine could be a whole lot better if they let their foot off the winemaking pedal. Date: Aug 2024; Alcohol: 13.8%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2024-2040+; Rated: 92+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front