An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

Plum, roses, blond tobacco, peppermint, spice. Medium-bodied, and feels like a lighter, more lithe expression of Wendouree Malbec, and quite light on its feet, hazelnut and biscuitty oak, fine-grained but firm tannin, with a light chew to a finish of excellent length. There’s a bit of lemon peel in this wine too, and it feels maybe a little brittle and fragile. It does not have the stuffing and tannic impact of the best vintages, though it does have charm. Nutmeg is a thing. Very good, but not great. Date: Aug 2024; Alcohol: 13.8%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2024-2035; Rated: 93+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front